Bouldering/Equipment

Equipment

Recommended gear and budget guides

Smart investing: Quality equipment enhances training and reduces injury risk. Below are evidence-based recommendations at various budget levels.

Essential Equipment

Climbing Shoes

The most critical piece of bouldering equipment. Fit and style dramatically affect performance.

Fit Principles:

  • Snug but not painful
  • No dead space in toe box
  • Downturned vs flat based on climbing style
  • Will stretch 0.5-1 size (leather more than synthetic)

Types:

  • Flat/Neutral: Beginners, all-day comfort, slab climbing
  • Moderate Downturn: Versatile, intermediate, most climbing styles
  • Aggressive Downturn: Steep terrain, powerful moves, advanced

Evidence: Proper shoe fit improves footwork precision and reduces foot fatigue (Schweizer, 2001).

Recommended by Level:

  • Beginner: La Sportiva Tarantulace, Scarpa Origin, Black Diamond Momentum
  • Intermediate: La Sportiva Katana, Scarpa Instinct VS, Five Ten Hiangle
  • Advanced: La Sportiva Solution, Scarpa Drago, Tenaya Oasi

Chalk & Chalk Bag

Improves grip by absorbing moisture.

Chalk Types:

  • Loose chalk: Traditional, most effective
  • Chalk ball: Less mess, gym-friendly
  • Liquid chalk: Base layer, mandatory at some gyms
  • Chunky chalk: Some prefer texture

Chalk Bag:

  • Boulder bucket: Sits on ground, large opening
  • Traditional bag: Belt attachment for sport climbing
  • Refillable vs disposable considerations

Crash Pad (Outdoor)

Essential safety equipment for outdoor bouldering.

Size Considerations:

  • Larger = more coverage, heavier
  • Hinge vs taco fold
  • Shoulder straps quality for approaches

Coverage:

  • One pad: Minimal, direct landing zone
  • Multiple pads: Better coverage, recommended for highballs

Recommended: Organic Big Pad, Black Diamond Mondo, Metolius Session II

Training Equipment

Hangboard/Fingerboard

The primary tool for finger strength development.

Evidence: Hangboard training significantly improves finger strength and climbing performance (Levernier & Laffaye, 2019).

Types:

  • Beginner-friendly: Large edges (20mm+), jugs
  • Progressive: Multiple edge sizes (6mm-20mm), slopers, pockets
  • Portable: Compact travel boards

Recommended: Beastmaker 1000/2000, Tension Grindstone, Metolius Project

Protocol:

  • Minimum 6 months climbing experience before hangboarding
  • Start with large edges
  • Progress gradually to avoid injury

Campus Board

For power and contact strength (advanced only).

Caution: High injury risk. Requires solid base of finger strength.

Training Holds

Mount on home wall for practice.

  • Jugs for pull-ups
  • Crimps for lock-off training
  • Pinches for thumb strength

Home Wall

The ultimate training investment.

Considerations:

  • Angle: 15-45 degrees overhanging
  • Size: 8x8ft minimum useful
  • Hold variety
  • Padding/flooring

Skin Care

Skin Maintenance

Bouldering is demanding on skin. Proper care enables more training.

Products:

  • Climbing-specific balm (Climb On, Joshua Tree)
  • Sandpaper/file for calluses
  • Nail clippers for hangnails

Protocol:

  • File calluses to prevent flappers
  • Moisturize after sessions
  • Rest skin when tender

Tape

For split tips and protection.

  • Climbing tape: Stickier, more durable
  • Athletic tape: More affordable

Apparel

Climbing Pants/Shorts

  • Stretchy fabric for mobility
  • Durable for rock contact (outdoor)
  • Fitted enough to see foot placements

Upper Body

  • Fitted shirt (no loose fabric on holds)
  • Tank tops or t-shirts
  • Layers for outdoor temperature changes

Budget Tiers

Minimal Budget (Indoor Only) - $100-200

Getting started:

  • Entry climbing shoes ($65-100): La Sportiva Tarantulace, Scarpa Origin
  • Chalk bag and chalk ($20-35)
  • Gym membership

Moderate Budget - $400-700

Regular indoor + occasional outdoor:

  • Quality climbing shoes ($120-170): La Sportiva Katana, Scarpa Instinct
  • Chalk setup + brush ($35-50)
  • Crash pad ($200-300): Organic Simple Pad, Metolius Session II
  • Hangboard ($50-80): Metolius Simulator 3D
  • Skin care products ($15-25)

Comprehensive Budget - $1500+

Serious boulderer:

  • Multiple pairs of climbing shoes (all-round + steep) ($250-400)
  • Large crash pad + supplemental pad ($400-600)
  • Premium hangboard ($100-200): Beastmaker 2000
  • Campus rungs ($50-100)
  • Training holds for home ($100-200)
  • Complete chalk setup ($50-75)
  • Approach shoes for outdoor ($100-150)
  • Guidebooks and apps ($50-100)

Technology

Training Apps

  • Crimpd: Hangboard protocols
  • Lattice Training: Assessments and programs
  • Grippy: Progress tracking

Video Analysis

  • Record attempts for movement analysis
  • Slow motion for footwork review

Outdoor-Specific Gear

Beyond the Crash Pad

  • Approach shoes: Sticky rubber, hiking capability
  • Brush: Clean holds of chalk and dirt
  • Tarp: Keep pad clean, gear organized
  • Headlamp: Dawn/dusk sessions
  • Guidebook or app: Mountain Project, 27 Crags

Conditions Gear

  • Puff jacket (belay jacket)
  • Beanie and warm layers
  • Hand warmers for cold conditions

Injury Prevention

Common Issues

  • Finger pulley injuries
  • Shoulder impingement
  • Skin splits

Prevention Equipment

  • Finger tape (H-taping for pulleys)
  • Resistance bands (shoulder prehab)
  • Hangboard for controlled loading

Recovery

  • Ice for acute finger tweaks
  • Contrast baths for fingers
  • Rest days between hard sessions

Finger Strength Development

Progressive Loading

  1. 1.Climbing volume (first 6-12 months)
  2. 2.Easy hangboard protocol
  3. 3.Progressive edge sizes
  4. 4.Advanced protocols (max hangs, repeaters)

Equipment Progression

  1. 1.Gym climbing (no equipment needed)
  2. 2.Basic hangboard with large edges
  3. 3.Multi-size hangboard
  4. 4.Portable hangboard for travel

Sources

  1. 1.Schweizer A (2001). "Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers." Journal of Biomechanics.
  2. 2.Levernier G & Laffaye G (2019). "Rate of force development and maximal force: Reliability and difference between non-climbers, skilled and international climbers." Sports Biomechanics.
  3. 3.Vigouroux L, et al. (2006). "Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques." Journal of Biomechanics.