Training Rules

Full rest between hard attempts (3-5 minutes minimum)

Phosphocreatine replenishment requires full rest; incomplete recovery degrades power

Rest days are training days for tendons - never skip

Tendon adaptation occurs during rest; continuous climbing causes overuse

No hangboard training for climbers with less than 1 year experience

Finger tendons adapt extremely slowly; loading before base strength leads to injury

Exception: Under direct supervision of qualified coach

Start warmup 5+ grades below max; progress gradually

Cold tendons and pulleys are injury-prone; systematic warmup is essential

No campus board work for climbers below V5/6b+ level

Dynamic finger loading is extremely high-risk without foundation

Exception: Under direct qualified supervision

Maximum 2 limit bouldering sessions per week

High-intensity climbing accumulates tendon stress; overtraining causes injury

Exception: Elite athletes with years of adaptation

Include antagonist work (push exercises) every session

Climbing creates pulling dominance; pushups/dips prevent imbalances

Exception: Dedicated technique-only sessions

Monitor skin condition; stop when approaching flappers

Skin damage requires days to heal; prevention is better than cure

Exception: Key outdoor sends with proper taping

For climbers below V6, technique work should exceed strength work

Most plateaus below V6 are technique, not strength limited

Exception: Specific strength limiters identified

Progress is non-linear; grades are subjective - focus on movement quality

Grade obsession leads to ego climbing and injury