Research & Evidence

Overview

Bouldering and sport climbing have distinct energy demands. Understanding these helps optimize training for specific climbing goals. This document covers the energy systems used in climbing, how to train them, and how to plan rest between attempts.

Energy Systems Primer

The Three Energy Systems

Climbing Application

Bouldering Energy Demands

The ATP-PC System in Bouldering

Most boulder problems take 10-40 seconds. The ATP-PC system:

• •Provides immediate energy without oxygen
• •Depletes rapidly (mostly gone by 10-15 seconds)
• •Requires 2-5 minutes for significant replenishment

Why Rest Matters Between Attempts

Key insight: If you're failing a boulder problem attempt after attempt with short rest, you're not trying harder—you're trying weaker.

Forearm Pump (Glycolytic Stress)

When a problem takes longer or involves continuous gripping:

• •Glycolytic system kicks in
• •Lactate accumulates (the "pump")
• •Grip strength decreases rapidly
• •May need 10-20+ minutes to fully recover

Optimal Rest Protocol for Projecting

For hard boulder problems:

1. 1.First attempt: Fresh, best effort
2. 2.Rest: 3-5 minutes minimum
3. 3.Second attempt: Near full recovery
4. 4.If pumped: Extended rest (10-15+ min) or switch problems

Power Endurance in Sport Climbing

What Is Power Endurance?

The ability to sustain high-intensity climbing for 1-5 minutes—combining strength with resistance to pump.

Training Power Endurance

Lactate Tolerance Training

Building tolerance to the pump:

• •Climb into the pump intentionally
• •Rest just enough to continue (not full recovery)
• •Accumulate time in the "pumped" state
• •1-2 sessions per week maximum

Aerobic Base for Climbers

Why Aerobic Fitness Matters

Even for boulderers, aerobic capacity:

• •Speeds recovery between attempts
• •Clears metabolic byproducts faster
• •Supports longer training sessions
• •Reduces overall fatigue

Building Aerobic Base

For climbers who don't do traditional cardio:

• •Long easy climbing sessions (volume days)
• •ARC training (20-30 min continuous easy climbing)
• •General cardio: running, cycling, swimming (2x/week, 30-45 min)

ARC Training

Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity:

• •20-45 minutes of continuous easy climbing
• •Never get pumped (stay aerobic)
• •Builds capillary density in forearms
• •Done on easy terrain (2-3 grades below limit)

Session Planning

Boulder Session Structure

1. 1.Warm-up (15-20 min): Easy climbing, gradually harder
2. 2.Project/limit attempts (60-90 min): Hard problems, full rest
3. 3.Volume climbing (20-30 min): Easier problems, shorter rest
4. 4.Cool-down: Easy climbing, stretching

When to Stop Attempting

Stop working a hard problem when:

• •Grip strength notably decreased
• •Movement quality deteriorating
• •Missing moves you normally do
• •3-4 unsuccessful attempts in a row

Better to stop fresh than continue failing.

Recovery Between Sessions

Forearm Recovery

Signs of Incomplete Recovery

• •Grip feels weak in warm-up
• •Pump comes faster than normal
• •Decreased finger strength
• •Elbow or forearm tenderness

Energy System Periodization

Base Phase

• •Focus: Aerobic capacity, volume
• •Training: Lots of easy climbing, ARC, general conditioning
• •Session type: Longer, less intense

Build Phase

• •Focus: Power endurance, strength-endurance
• •Training: 4x4s, linked problems, routes
• •Session type: Moderate intensity, moderate volume

Peak Phase

• •Focus: Maximum power, projecting
• •Training: Hard attempts, full rest, low volume
• •Session type: High intensity, low volume

Rest Phase

• •Focus: Recovery, maintaining base
• •Training: Easy climbing, other activities
• •Session type: Low intensity, low volume

Common Mistakes

Key Takeaways

• •Boulder problems are ATP-PC dominant—rest 3-5 min between hard attempts
• •Pump indicates glycolytic system stress—requires extended rest
• •Aerobic base speeds recovery even for boulderers
• •ARC training builds forearm capillarity
• •Quality beats quantity for hard bouldering
• •Stop projecting before performance deteriorates significantly
• •Periodize energy system training across phases

References

• •Bertuzzi RCM, Franchini E, Kokubun E, Kiss MAPDM (2007). Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol.
• •España-Romero V, Ortega Porcel FB, Artero EG, et al. (2009). Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers. Eur J Appl Physiol.
• •Watts PB (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol.

Overview

Finger strength is the limiting factor for most climbers. The tendons and pulleys of the fingers adapt slowly to training stress, taking months to years to develop. Understanding this adaptation process prevents injury and guides effective training. This document covers pulley anatomy, hangboard protocols, and tendon adaptation science.

Anatomy of the Finger Pulley System

The A2 and A4 Pulleys

The finger flexor tendons run through a series of fibrous bands (pulleys) that hold them close to the bone. The most important for climbers:

Why Pulleys Fail

Pulley injuries occur when:

• •Load exceeds tissue tolerance
• •Repeated stress without recovery
• •Crimping (closed grip) under high load
• •Sudden loading (dynamic moves)

Key insight: Tendons adapt 3-10x slower than muscles. You can have the muscle strength to hold a grip but the tendon strength to tear apart.

Tendon Adaptation Principles

Adaptation Timeline

Progressive Overload for Tendons

Tendons respond to mechanical loading but require:

• •Gradual progression (10% rule applies)
• •Adequate recovery (tendons need 48-72+ hours)
• •Consistent stimulus over months
• •Avoiding sudden load spikes

Collagen Synthesis

Tendon adaptation requires collagen synthesis:

• •Peak synthesis 24-72 hours post-exercise
• •Vitamin C may support synthesis
• •Sleep is critical for tissue repair
• •Nutrition (protein) supports recovery

Hangboard Training

Why Hangboard?

Hangboarding provides:

• •Controlled, measurable training
• •Isolated finger loading
• •Progressive overload capability
• •Consistency regardless of climbing availability

Grip Positions

Recommendation: Train primarily with half crimp and open hand. Avoid full crimp in hangboard training.

Beginner Protocol (0-2 years climbing)

Prerequisites:

• •Climbing consistently for 6+ months
• •No current finger injuries
• •Can hang on large edge (20mm) for 10+ seconds

Protocol:

• •7-second hangs, 5 sets
• •3-minute rest between sets
• •Large edges only (18-20mm)
• •2x per week maximum
• •Bodyweight only initially

Progression:

• •Add time (7→10→12 seconds)
• •Add sets (5→6→7)
• •Then decrease edge size
• •Add weight only when edges feel solid

Intermediate Protocol (2-5 years climbing)

Prerequisites:

• •Solid half crimp on 15mm edge
• •No injury history or fully recovered
• •Consistent training for 1+ year

Protocol:

• •10-second hangs, 6 sets
• •3-minute rest
• •Vary edges (20mm, 15mm, 12mm)
• •2-3x per week

Intensity approaches:

1. 1.Max hangs: Add weight, keep reps low
2. 2.Repeaters: 7 on / 3 off × 6, multiple sets
3. 3.Density: Reduce rest, same volume

Advanced Protocol (5+ years climbing)

Note: Advanced protocols should be individualized. General principles:

• •May train 3x per week if recovery allows
• •Can include smaller edges (10-12mm)
• •Weighted hangs (up to 50%+ bodyweight)
• •Periodize with climbing volume
• •Monitor for early warning signs

Warning Signs During Hangboarding

Stop immediately if:

• •Sharp pain in finger
• •"Popping" sensation
• •Significant decrease in strength mid-session
• •Pain that doesn't resolve in warmup

Finger Training Beyond Hangboarding

Climbing Volume

Climbing itself builds finger strength, especially:

• •Steep bouldering
• •Long routes with small holds
• •Varies angles and hold types

No-Hang Devices

Devices like the Tension Block allow pulling without hanging:

• •Easier to control intensity
• •Can train one arm at a time
• •Good for injury rehab
• •Progress similar to hangboard

Antagonist Training

Balance finger flexor development with:

• •Finger extensions (rubber bands)
• •Wrist extensions
• •Reverse wrist curls

Periodization of Finger Training

Off-Season / Base Phase

• •Higher volume, lower intensity
• •Climbing for mileage
• •Hangboard: larger edges, more reps

Build Phase

• •Moderate volume, moderate intensity
• •Hangboard: medium edges, moderate weight
• •Fingerboard focus

Peak Phase

• •Lower volume, higher intensity
• •Hangboard: smaller edges, max hangs
• •Reduced climbing volume

Transition / Rest Phase

• •Minimal finger-specific training
• •Climbing for fun
• •Recovery emphasis

Injury Prevention

Risk Factors for Pulley Injury

Prehab Protocol

Weekly finger health maintenance:

1. 1.Finger extensions: 3x15 with band
2. 2.Wrist circles: 10 each direction
3. 3.Wrist flexion/extension stretch: 30 sec each
4. 4.Massage flexor tendons: 2-3 min

Return to Training After Injury

If you've had a pulley injury:

1. 1.Complete rest until no pain with daily activities
2. 2.Start with very large holds only
3. 3.Progress edge size over weeks
4. 4.No crimp grip for 3-6 months
5. 5.Work with a climbing-experienced PT

Common Mistakes

Key Takeaways

• •Tendons adapt slowly—plan in months, not weeks
• •A2 and A4 pulleys are vulnerable; respect them
• •Open hand and half crimp are safer than full crimp
• •Hangboard is effective but requires proper progression
• •Progressive overload applies to tendons
• •Warning signs demand immediate rest
• •Finger strength is a long-term investment

References

• •Schweizer A (2001). Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers. J Biomech.
• •Vigouroux L, Quaine F, Labarre-Vila A, Moutet F (2006). Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. J Biomech.
• •López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ (2012). The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers. Sports Technol.

Overview

Bouldering is a psychological puzzle wrapped in physical challenge. Research shows fear management impairs lower-grade climbers more than experts—the mental game develops alongside physical skill. The sport uniquely combines problem-solving, fear confrontation, and flow state access.

Psychological Demands of Bouldering

Fear of Falling

Unlike roped climbing, bouldering means falling onto pads:

• •Falls are frequent (part of the sport)
• •Heights are limited but still trigger fear
• •Landing technique matters
• •Injuries possible from bad falls

Problem-Solving Under Pressure

Every boulder problem is a puzzle:

• •Sequence reading (beta)
• •Body position optimization
• •Energy conservation
• •Real-time adaptation

Frustration Management

Projecting (working a hard problem) requires:

• •Patience through repeated failure
• •Maintaining motivation
• •Learning from each attempt
• •Managing frustration and ego

Performance Anxiety

Competition and goal-setting create pressure:

• •Sending specific grades
• •Competition performance
• •Performing in front of others
• •Timed attempts

Core Mental Skills for Bouldering

1. Fear of Falling Management

Understanding the Fear:

• •Fear is natural and sometimes protective
• •Disproportionate fear impairs performance
• •Fear can be trained like strength

Graduated Exposure Protocol:

1. 1.Practice falling from low heights
2. 2.Build landing technique and confidence
3. 3.Gradually increase height
4. 4.Practice falling from various positions/angles

In-the-Moment Fear Management:

• •Breathing to reduce panic
• •Focus on the move, not the consequence
• •"I've fallen safely before"
• •Commit fully (hesitation often causes worse falls)

Reframing Falls:

• •Falling is part of bouldering
• •Every fall teaches something
• •The pad is there for a reason
• •Progress requires falling

2. Visualization (Beta Visualization)

Pre-Attempt Visualization:

• •See yourself executing each move
• •Feel the holds in your hands
• •Visualize body positions and weight shifts
• •Include successful completion

PETTLEP for Bouldering:

• •Physical: Stand at the start holds, mime movements
• •Environment: See the wall, the holds, the environment
• •Task: Specific problem with specific beta
• •Timing: Real-time movement speed
• •Learning: Update as beta is refined
• •Emotion: Feel the send, the flow, the confidence
• •Perspective: First-person (through your eyes on the holds)

Visualization During Rest:

• •Between attempts, visualize correction
• •See successful completion before trying again
• •Mental rehearsal reinforces physical practice

3. Self-Talk for Bouldering

Technical Cues:

• •"Hips in"
• •"Straight arms"
• •"Feet first"
• •"Trust the hold"

Commitment Cues:

• •"Go for it"
• •"Full send"
• •"Commit"
• •"Attack"

Patience Cues:

• •"One move at a time"
• •"Trust the process"
• •"Progress, not perfection"

4. Problem-Solving Mindset

Reading Problems:

• •Observe before attempting
• •Identify key moves and sequences
• •Plan rest positions
• •Consider alternative beta

Learning from Attempts:

• •Each fall provides information
• •What worked? What didn't?
• •Adjust beta based on feedback
• •Don't repeat the same mistake

Creativity and Flexibility:

• •Be willing to change beta
• •Consider unconventional solutions
• •Watch how others climb the problem
• •Adapt to your body type and style

5. Frustration Management

Projecting Psychology:

• •Hard problems require many attempts
• •Expect frustration and normalize it
• •Frustration is information, not failure
• •Break sessions to maintain perspective

When to Walk Away:

• •Physically fatigued (injury risk)
• •Mentally frustrated (diminishing returns)
• •Fresh attempts after rest often succeed

Long-Term Project Mindset:

• •Some problems take weeks/months
• •Celebrate micro-progress
• •Enjoy the process of problem-solving
• •The send comes when it comes

6. Flow State in Bouldering

Bouldering produces powerful flow experiences.

Flow Triggers:

• •Skill-challenge balance (appropriate grade)
• •Clear immediate goals (complete the problem)
• •Immediate feedback (success or fall)
• •Deep concentration required

Optimizing for Flow:

• •Climb at your limit (but not beyond)
• •Remove distractions
• •Trust your body and beta
• •Let go of outcome attachment

Sending Psychology

The Mental Block at Crux

Getting stuck at crux moves often has mental component:

• •Fear of falling from high point
• •Performance anxiety
• •Hesitation creating failure

Breaking Through:

• •Isolate and practice the crux move
• •Visualization of successful crux execution
• •Commit fully—hesitation is the enemy
• •Trust that you've done the move before

Competition Sending

Different psychology than session sending:

• •Time pressure
• •Observation by others
• •One attempt matters more

Competition Mental Skills:

• •Pre-competition visualization
• •Arousal regulation to optimal zone
• •Process focus (your climbing, not others')
• •Routines between problems

Training Psychology

Session Structure

Warm-Up:

• •Physical and mental preparation
• •Easy problems to build confidence
• •Groove movement patterns

Working Hard Problems:

• •Full engagement and focus
• •Quality attempts, not quantity
• •Rest adequately between attempts
• •Apply mental skills (visualization, self-talk)

Cool-Down:

• •Easy climbing for enjoyment
• •Positive ending to session
• •Physical and mental wind-down

Long-Term Development

Grade Progression:

• •Patience with plateau periods
• •Celebrate sends at any grade
• •Comparative suffering is unnecessary
• •Your progress is your own

Skill Balance:

• •Work weaknesses (uncomfortable)
• •Enjoy strengths (confidence)
• •Mental skills for both

Community and Social Psychology

Learning from Others

• •Watch stronger climbers
• •Ask for beta (builds community)
• •Share successes and struggles
• •Support others' sends

Dealing with Comparison

• •Everyone started somewhere
• •Different body types, different beta
• •Your climbing journey is unique
• •Compare to yourself, not others

References

1. 1.Green, A.L., et al. (2024). The psychology of rock climbing: A systematic review. Psychology of Sport and Exercise.
2. 2.Sanchez, X., et al. (2012). Fear of falling in sport climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences.
3. 3.Csikszentmihalyi, M. (1990). Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience. Harper & Row.
4. 4.Brymer, E., & Schweitzer, R. (2017). Phenomenology and the Extreme Sport Experience. Routledge.