Research & Evidence

Overview

Surfing is mindfulness in action—the ocean demands full presence. Research shows surfing provides unique psychological benefits through "blue space" immersion, flow states, and the courage developed by facing fear. The mental game is inseparable from the surfing experience.

Psychological Demands of Surfing

Fear of the Ocean

The ocean presents primal fears:

• •Power of waves (especially larger surf)
• •Hold-downs and breath control
• •Unpredictability
• •Sharks and marine life
• •Unfamiliar environment

Reading the Ocean

Surfing requires ocean literacy:

• •Wave selection and timing
• •Current and tide awareness
• •Set patterns and intervals
• •Bottom contours and hazards

Patience and Acceptance

The ocean operates on its own schedule:

• •Waiting for waves
• •Accepting flat days
• •Dealing with crowds
• •Conditions beyond control

Physical Demands Affecting Psychology

• •Paddle exhaustion
• •Cold water
• •Long sessions
• •Recovery from wipeouts

Core Mental Skills for Surfing

1. "Blue Mindfulness"

Surfing naturally cultivates present-moment awareness.

Why It Works:

• •Ocean demands full attention
• •Can't think about work while duck-diving
• •Immediate feedback from waves
• •Sensory immersion (salt, sound, motion)

Cultivating Mindfulness in Surfing:

• •Notice the sensory experience fully
• •Let go of thoughts about past/future
• •Focus on breath between waves
• •Accept whatever the ocean offers

Research Support: "Blue mind" research shows being in water improves self-awareness, creativity, and wellbeing.

2. Fear Management

Healthy respect for the ocean differs from debilitating fear.

Understanding Surf-Related Fear:

• •Some fear is adaptive (keeps you safe)
• •Panic is the enemy (increases danger)
• •Preparation reduces fear
• •Experience builds confidence

Managing Fear of Bigger Waves:

1. 1.Physical Preparation:

• •Breath-hold training
• •Swimming fitness
• •Know your wipeout protocol

1. 1.Mental Preparation:

• •Visualize successful rides AND wipeouts
• •Plan for what can go wrong
• •Start small, progress gradually

1. 1.In-the-Moment:

• •Breathing to prevent panic
• •Focus on action, not fear
• •"I've trained for this"

Alex Honnold's Framework (adapted for surfing):

• •Assess consequence (how bad could it be?)
• •Assess probability (how likely is it?)
• •Make informed decisions based on both

3. Visualization for Surfing

Pre-Surf Visualization:

• •See yourself catching waves
• •Feel the pop-up and ride
• •Visualize maneuvers you want to work on
• •Include wipeouts and recovery

PETTLEP for Surfing:

• •Physical: Stand as you would on board, or lie in paddle position
• •Environment: See and feel the ocean, hear the waves
• •Task: Specific maneuver or wave you're preparing for
• •Timing: Real-time ride speed
• •Learning: Current skill level
• •Emotion: Joy, flow, confidence
• •Perspective: First-person (looking down the line)

Breath-Hold Visualization:

• •Visualize calm during hold-downs
• •Practice relaxation during breath-hold training
• •Mental rehearsal of wipeout protocol

4. Self-Talk for Surfing

Paddling Out:

• •"Strong paddles"
• •"Dive early"
• •"Almost there"

Catching Waves:

• •"Commit"
• •"Pop-up quick"
• •"Look where I want to go"

During Ride:

• •"Compress, extend"
• •"Eyes down the line"
• •"Feel the wave"

After Wipeout:

• •"Relax and roll"
• •"Protect head"
• •"Patience for surface"

5. Dealing with Crowds

Crowded lineups challenge psychology:

Mindset Shifts:

• •Accept reality (crowds exist)
• •Focus on your surfing, not others
• •Respect priority rules
• •Find your own space

Practical Strategies:

• •Surf off-peak times
• •Explore less crowded breaks
• •Practice patience
• •Share waves graciously

6. Patience and Acceptance

Waiting for Waves:

• •Meditation opportunity
• •Practice presence
• •Observe ocean patterns
• •Enjoy being in water (not just riding)

Flat Spells:

• •Accept conditions beyond control
• •Cross-train (swim, skateboard)
• •Visualize
• •Appreciate when surf returns

Wave-Size Specific Psychology

Small Waves

Mental Focus:

• •Skill refinement
• •Flow and fun
• •Volume of practice
• •Low-consequence experimentation

Medium Waves

Mental Focus:

• •Balance of challenge and fun
• •Optimal learning zone
• •Build confidence for bigger surf

Large Waves

Mental Focus:

• •Preparation and respect
• •Breath-hold confidence
• •Decision-making about which waves to take
• •Commitment once you go

Overhead+ (Personal Limit Pushing)

Mental Focus:

• •Thorough preparation
• •Know your limits and push appropriately
• •Have safety plan
• •Accept fear as part of the experience

Session Psychology

Pre-Surf

• •Check conditions (know what you're getting into)
• •Warm-up (physical and mental)
• •Set intention (what to work on)
• •Visualization of successful session

During Session

• •Stay present
• •Celebrate good rides
• •Learn from mistakes
• •Manage fatigue

Post-Surf

• •"Stoke" appreciation
• •Brief reflection
• •Recovery
• •Gratitude practice

Fear After Injury or Incident

Returning After Hold-Down or Scary Experience

• •Acknowledge the fear (don't suppress)
• •Start smaller than before incident
• •Rebuild confidence gradually
• •Mental rehearsal of success

Injury Recovery

• •Visualization of healthy surfing
• •Gradual return
• •Address psychological barriers directly
• •Patience with the process

Surf Therapy Research

Research on surf therapy programs shows:

References

1. 1.Nichols, W.J. (2014). Blue Mind: The Surprising Science That Shows How Being Near, In, On, or Under Water Can Make You Happier, Healthier, More Connected, and Better at What You Do. Little, Brown.
2. 2.Britton, E., et al. (2020). A systematic review of the mental health benefits of surf therapy. BMC Public Health.
3. 3.Caddick, N., et al. (2015). The effects of surfing and the natural environment on the well-being of combat veterans. Qualitative Health Research.
4. 4.Brymer, E., & Schweitzer, R. (2017). Phenomenology and the Extreme Sport Experience. Routledge.

Overview

Paddling constitutes 50-70% of time spent surfing. Understanding the physiology and biomechanics of paddling allows targeted training that directly improves surf performance. This document covers the science of paddle endurance and how to develop it.

Time-Motion Analysis of Surfing

Activity Distribution

Paddling Patterns

Biomechanics of Paddling

Muscle Involvement

Stroke Mechanics

Efficient paddling technique:

• •High elbow catch (vertical forearm)
• •Pull under centerline of board
• •Full extension past hip
• •Relaxed recovery (save energy)
• •Head down, eyes forward

Key insight: Inefficient technique wastes energy exponentially. Improving technique may have more impact than improving fitness.

Thoracic Extension Demands

Paddling requires sustained thoracic extension (back arch) to:

• •Keep head above water for visibility
• •Position shoulders for effective strokes
• •Allow full arm reach during catch

Problem: Hours of this position creates extension-related tension and compensatory patterns.

Solution: Regular thoracic mobility work and flexion-based recovery.

Energy System Demands

Aerobic Foundation

Paddling is primarily aerobic:

• •Extended duration (minutes to hours)
• •Moderate intensity (50-70% HR max for steady paddling)
• •Recovery between bursts relies on aerobic system

Sprint Capacity

Wave catching requires brief maximal efforts:

• •5-15 seconds of all-out paddling
• •Relies on ATP-PC and glycolytic systems
• •Must recover quickly before next wave opportunity

Energy System Training

Shoulder Adaptation to Paddling

Positive Adaptations

• •Increased shoulder endurance
• •Improved stroke efficiency
• •Greater motor unit recruitment

Negative Adaptations (If Not Addressed)

Prevention Strategies

Training Paddle Endurance

Pool Swimming

Most accessible paddle training method.

Benefits:

• •Similar movement pattern
• •Easy to quantify progress
• •Controlled environment

Limitations:

• •Different resistance profile
• •No board dynamics
• •Can be boring

Protocol:

• •2-3x per week
• •30-60 minutes
• •Mix distances: 100m repeats, 500m continuous, sprint sets

Rowing Machine

Excellent for building paddle power and endurance.

Benefits:

• •Pull-dominant (like paddling)
• •Easy intensity control
• •Good for intervals

Limitations:

• •Seated position differs from prone
• •Different muscle recruitment pattern

Protocol:

• •2-3x per week
• •Intervals: 500m hard, 500m easy x 4-6
• •Steady state: 20-30 min at moderate intensity

Paddle Ergometer (If Available)

Purpose-built for surf training.

Benefits:

• •Exact movement pattern
• •Prone position
• •Sport-specific

Protocol:

• •Use similarly to rowing intervals
• •Can simulate sprint-paddle-recover patterns

Actual Paddling

Nothing replaces time in the water.

When not surfing waves:

• •Flat water paddle sessions
• •Focus on technique during low-pressure time
• •Build duration progressively

Shoulder-Specific Endurance

Rotator Cuff Endurance

The rotator cuff stabilizes through thousands of strokes. Fatigue leads to injury.

Training:

• •High-rep external rotation (band or cable)
• •3-4x weekly, 2-3 sets of 15-20 reps
• •Focus on endurance, not strength

Scapular Stabilizer Endurance

Serratus anterior, rhomboids, and lower traps fatigue with extended paddling.

Training:

• •Serratus push-ups: 3x15
• •Band pull-aparts: 3x20
• •Y-T-W raises: 2x10 each position

Paddling Power for Wave Catching

Developing Sprint Paddle

Wave catching requires maximal effort for 5-15 seconds. Training this specifically:

Power vs Endurance Balance

Most surfers need more endurance than power. Prioritize:

1. 1.Aerobic base (always)
2. 2.Sprint recovery (next priority)
3. 3.Max power (only if base is solid)

Quantifying Progress

Metrics to Track

Simple Test Protocol

Monthly paddle test:

1. 1.500m continuous swim for time
2. 2.4x50m sprints (track fatigue index)
3. 3.10-minute steady paddle, count strokes

Track improvement across all three metrics.

Key Takeaways

• •Paddling is 50-70% of surfing—train it accordingly
• •Aerobic base is essential for paddle endurance
• •Shoulder health requires proactive external rotation work
• •Swimming and rowing are effective paddle training substitutes
• •Technique matters—efficient strokes save energy
• •Sprint paddle capacity requires specific training
• •Progressive overload applies to paddle training

References

• •Mendez-Villanueva A, Bishop D, Hamer P (2006). Activity profile of world-class professional surfers during competition: A case study. J Strength Cond Res.
• •Farley OR, Harris NK, Kilding AE (2012). Physiological demands of competitive surfing. J Strength Cond Res.
• •Sheppard JM, McNamara P, Osborne M, et al. (2012). Association between anthropometry and upper-body strength qualities with sprint paddling performance in competitive wave surfers. J Strength Cond Res.

Overview

Breath-hold capacity is a crucial but often neglected aspect of surf fitness. While wipeouts and hold-downs are inevitable, the confidence that comes from breath training transforms fear into calm competence. This guide covers the science of apnea training and safe protocols for surfers.

Why Breath Training Matters

The Reality of Hold-Downs

Most surfers can comfortably hold their breath for 30-60 seconds at rest. However, underwater in a turbulent wipeout with elevated heart rate, this drops dramatically.

Panic vs. Preparation

The untrained response to being held underwater:

1. 1.Heart rate spikes (160+ bpm)
2. 2.Muscles tense (increasing oxygen demand)
3. 3.Mind races (anxiety, time distortion)
4. 4.Oxygen depletes rapidly
5. 5.Panic accelerates the cycle

The trained response:

1. 1.Heart rate stays moderate (mammalian dive reflex)
2. 2.Muscles stay relaxed (minimal oxygen use)
3. 3.Mind stays calm (confidence in capacity)
4. 4.Oxygen conserved
5. 5.Wait patiently for wave to release

Physiology of Breath Holding

What Limits Breath Holds

1. 1.CO2 tolerance - The urge to breathe comes from rising CO2, not falling O2
2. 2.Oxygen stores - Blood, lungs, muscles, and spleen all store oxygen
3. 3.Metabolic rate - Activity and tension increase oxygen consumption
4. 4.Mental state - Panic dramatically shortens breath holds

Training Adaptations

With consistent practice:

• •CO2 tolerance improves (delayed urge to breathe)
• •Spleen contracts more effectively (releases oxygen-rich blood)
• •Relaxation response strengthens
• •Confidence builds (reduces panic response)

Safe Training Protocols

CRITICAL SAFETY RULES

1. 1.Never train alone - Shallow water blackout can occur without warning
2. 2.Never train in water without a trained spotter
3. 3.Never hyperventilate before holds - This causes blackout risk
4. 4.Never push to blackout - Always leave a margin
5. 5.Stop if you feel lightheaded, tingling, or see spots
6. 6.Consider taking a proper freediving course

Dry Static Holds

The safest way to train breath-hold capacity.

Protocol:

1. 1.Sit or lie comfortably
2. 2.Breathe normally for 2-3 minutes
3. 3.Take a normal breath (not maximum)
4. 4.Hold comfortably, note time when urge to breathe begins
5. 5.End hold when contractions become strong (not maximum)
6. 6.Recover 2-3 minutes with normal breathing
7. 7.Repeat 4-6 times

Progression:

• •Week 1-2: Find comfortable baseline (no pushing)
• •Week 3-4: Extend hold by 5-10 seconds
• •Week 5-6: Continue gradual progression
• •Target: 60-90 seconds of comfortable hold

CO2 Tolerance Tables

Builds tolerance to the urge to breathe.

Protocol (8-breath table):

1. 1.Hold at 50% of max time
2. 2.Rest for decreasing intervals

Example (if max is 60 sec): Hold 30 sec, rest 2:00, hold 30 sec, rest 1:45, etc.

Apnea Walking

Trains breath-hold capacity with mild activity.

Protocol:

1. 1.Exhale normally (not fully)
2. 2.Walk at normal pace
3. 3.Stop when urge to breathe becomes strong
4. 4.Note distance
5. 5.Recover 2-3 minutes
6. 6.Repeat 3-5 times

Progression:

• •Increase distance gradually over weeks
• •Never push to blackout territory

Underwater Swimming (Pool Only, With Spotter)

Only for experienced breath-hold athletes with trained supervision.

Protocol:

1. 1.Never alone
2. 2.Spotter watches from poolside, ready to enter water
3. 3.Start with short distances (15-25m)
4. 4.Full recovery between efforts
5. 5.Never push to discomfort

Mental Training

Visualization for Hold-Downs

Mental rehearsal is powerful for wipeout confidence:

1. 1.See the scenario: Visualize getting caught inside by a set
2. 2.Feel the wipeout: Imagine going over the falls
3. 3.Stay calm: Visualize relaxing, going limp
4. 4.Protect head: See yourself covering your head
5. 5.Wait: Visualize patiently waiting for release
6. 6.Surface calmly: Imagine coming up, taking a breath, assessing

Practice this visualization regularly, especially before big surf sessions.

Self-Talk During Hold-Downs

Prepare mental cues:

• •"Relax, it will pass"
• •"Protect my head"
• •"This is shorter than my training holds"
• •"Wait for the surface"

Managing Fear

Fear of hold-downs often exceeds actual danger. Address this through:

1. 1.Knowledge: Understanding wave mechanics reduces uncertainty
2. 2.Preparation: Training builds confidence
3. 3.Gradual exposure: Progress to bigger waves incrementally
4. 4.Post-wipeout protocol: Having a plan reduces panic

Applying Training to Surfing

Pre-Surf Breathing

Before challenging sessions:

• •2-3 minutes of calm breathing
• •Box breathing (4-4-4-4)
• •Positive visualization
• •Remind yourself of training capacity

During Sessions

• •Stay relaxed between waves
• •Don't hyperventilate before paddling for waves
• •If held under, initiate relaxation response immediately
• •After wipeout, fully recover before paddling back out

Big Wave Preparation

For surfers progressing to larger waves:

1. 1.Build capacity systematically - Don't rush progression
2. 2.Know your limits - Your breath hold under stress is shorter than at rest
3. 3.Surf with partners - Always have someone watching
4. 4.Consider impact vests - Buoyancy helps with recovery
5. 5.Practice in pool first - Build underwater confidence

Training Schedule

Beginner (first 4-6 weeks):

• •2-3x per week
• •Dry static holds only
• •Focus on relaxation, not maximum times
• •Build to 60 seconds comfortable

Intermediate (ongoing maintenance):

• •1-2x per week
• •Mix static holds and CO2 tables
• •Occasional apnea walks
• •Target 75-90 seconds comfortable

Pre-Trip or Big Wave Prep:

• •3x per week for 4-6 weeks
• •Progressive overload on hold times
• •Mental visualization daily
• •Build margin for stress conditions

Key Takeaways

1. 1.Safety first - Never train alone, never hyperventilate, never push to blackout
2. 2.CO2 tolerance is trainable - The urge to breathe comes from CO2, and you can adapt
3. 3.Relaxation is everything - Tension burns oxygen, calm conserves it
4. 4.Mental training matters - Visualization and self-talk prepare you for real situations
5. 5.Build margin - Your capacity under stress is less than at rest
6. 6.Respect the ocean - Preparation creates confidence, not invincibility

References

• •Lindholm P, Lundgren CE (2009). The physiology and pathophysiology of human breath-hold diving. J Appl Physiol.
• •Schagatay E, van Kampen M, Andersson J (1999). Effects of repeated apneas on apneic time and diving response in non-divers. Undersea Hyperb Med.
• •Foster GE, Sheel AW (2005). The human diving response, its function, and its control. Scand J Med Sci Sports.
• •Ferretti G (2001). Extreme human breath-hold diving. Eur J Appl Physiol.

Overview

Surf fitness is a unique blend of endurance, power, and recovery capacity. Unlike traditional cardio sports, surfing alternates between moderate-intensity paddling, brief maximal efforts, and passive recovery. This document explains the conditioning demands and how to train for them effectively.

Energy System Profile of Surfing

Typical Surf Session (1-2 hours)

Heart Rate Patterns

Key insight: Surfing is primarily aerobic with repeated anaerobic bursts. Train both systems.

The Intermittent Nature of Surfing

Work-to-Rest Ratios

Unlike continuous sports, surfing has built-in recovery:

• •Wave catch to next paddle: 1:3 to 1:5
• •Paddle out to first wave: 1:0 (no rest until in position)
• •During session: Highly variable

Recovery Between Waves

The aerobic system clears metabolic byproducts and regenerates ATP stores. Better aerobic fitness = faster recovery = more waves caught.

Conditioning Methods for Surfing

1. Aerobic Base Building

Foundation for all surf fitness.

Why: Supports paddle endurance, speeds recovery, reduces fatigue over long sessions.

Methods:

Note: Swimming is most sport-specific but running/cycling work for base building.

2. Interval Training

Simulates the intermittent demands of surfing.

Protocol A: Paddle Simulation (Swimming)

• •25m sprint (wave catch simulation)
• •50m easy (return paddle)
• •30 sec rest (sitting in lineup)
• •Repeat 8-12 times

Protocol B: General Intervals (Any Modality)

• •30 sec hard effort
• •90 sec easy/rest
• •Repeat 8-12 times

Protocol C: Long Intervals

• •3 min moderate effort (paddle out simulation)
• •2 min easy
• •Repeat 4-6 times

3. Sprint Capacity

For wave catching.

Protocol:

• •10-15 sec all-out effort
• •60-90 sec complete rest
• •6-8 reps
• •Use: sprints, rowing, battle ropes, swimming

Key: Full recovery between efforts—this is ATP-PC training, not endurance.

4. Session Duration Training

Building tolerance for 2-3 hour surf sessions.

Progression:

• •Week 1-2: 45-60 min mixed cardio
• •Week 3-4: 60-75 min with intervals mixed in
• •Week 5-6: 75-90 min
• •Week 7-8: 90-120 min

Include: Brief high-intensity bursts every 5-10 minutes to simulate wave catching.

Conditioning for the Pop-Up

Movement Demands

The pop-up is a plyometric push combined with explosive hip flexion:

• •Horizontal push (like explosive push-up)
• •Hip flexor strength and mobility
• •Core stability during transition
• •Speed is critical

Pop-Up Conditioning Circuit

Repeat 3-4 rounds, minimal rest:

1. 1.Explosive push-ups: 8 reps
2. 2.Mountain climbers: 20 reps (10 each side)
3. 3.Pop-up burpees: 6 reps
4. 4.Plank hold: 30 sec
5. 5.Rest: 60-90 sec between rounds

Pop-Up Endurance

Late in a session, fatigue slows the pop-up. Train for repeated pop-ups:

• •10 pop-up burpees every minute on the minute
• •Continue for 10-15 minutes
• •Simulates multiple waves with recovery between

Conditioning for Wipeouts

Duck Diving and Hold-Downs

Bigger waves mean longer hold-downs. Breath-hold capacity helps manage panic.

Breath-Hold Training (Carefully!):

• •Never train alone or in water
• •Static hold: Relax, exhale fully, hold as long as comfortable
• •Progress slowly (add 5-10 sec per week)
• •CO2 tolerance is trainable

Apnea walks:

• •Exhale, walk at normal pace until need to breathe
• •Rest 2-3 minutes
• •Repeat 3-5 times
• •Progress distance over weeks

Warning: Never hyperventilate before breath-holds—this causes blackout risk.

Impact Conditioning

Wipeouts involve impacts. Neck and core strength help:

• •Neck strengthening: all directions
• •Core bracing: Pallof press, dead bug
• •Shoulder stability: rotator cuff work

Season Planning

Off-Season (Not Surfing Regularly)

Focus: Build base fitness

• •3-4 conditioning sessions/week
• •Emphasis on aerobic base
• •Include intervals 1-2x/week
• •Maintain/build shoulder health

Pre-Trip (6-8 Weeks Before Surf Trip)

Focus: Sport-specific conditioning

• •Increase intensity of intervals
• •Add sprint work
• •Include pop-up conditioning
• •Build session duration tolerance

In-Season (Surfing Regularly)

Focus: Maintain fitness, recover

• •Reduce conditioning (surfing provides stimulus)
• •1-2 maintenance sessions/week
• •Focus on shoulder health and mobility
• •Don't accumulate excess fatigue

Common Conditioning Mistakes

Sample Weekly Conditioning Programs

Off-Season (4 sessions)

Pre-Trip (4 sessions + pop-up work)

Key Takeaways

• •Surfing requires aerobic base + repeated sprint capacity
• •Build the aerobic base first—it enables everything else
• •Interval training best simulates surf demands
• •Train the pop-up specifically and repeatedly
• •Session duration tolerance must be built progressively
• •Swimming is most sport-specific but not the only option
• •Shoulder health must be protected during conditioning
• •In-season, reduce conditioning—surfing is the training

References

• •Mendez-Villanueva A, Perez-Landaluce J, Bishop D, et al. (2005). Upper body aerobic fitness comparison between two groups of competitive surfboard riders. J Sci Med Sport.
• •Farley OR, Harris NK, Kilding AE (2012). Anaerobic and aerobic fitness profiling of competitive surfers. J Strength Cond Res.
• •Barlow MJ, Findlay M, Gresty K, Cooke C (2014). Anthropometric variables and their relationship to performance and ability in male surfers. Eur J Sport Sci.

Overview

Surfing presents unique injury risks from both the ocean environment and repetitive physical demands. Understanding these risks and implementing prevention strategies keeps surfers healthy and in the water longer. This guide covers the most common surf-related injuries and evidence-based prevention approaches.

Shoulder Injuries: The Silent Epidemic

Why Surfers Destroy Their Shoulders

Paddling creates a perfect storm for shoulder problems:

1. 1.Volume: Surfers may take 1000+ strokes per session
2. 2.Internal rotation dominance: Paddle stroke emphasizes internal rotators
3. 3.Thoracic flexion: Prone position rounds the upper back
4. 4.Muscle imbalances: Anterior muscles overdevelop relative to posterior
5. 5.Poor recovery: Cold water, fatigue, and delayed care

Common Shoulder Injuries

Prevention Protocol

Daily Maintenance (5 minutes):

• •Band pull-aparts: 2x20
• •External rotation: 2x15 each arm
• •Prone Y-T-W raises: 1x10 each
• •Thoracic foam rolling: 1-2 minutes

Pre-Surf Activation:

• •Arm circles: 20 each direction
• •Scapular push-ups: 10 reps
• •Band face pulls: 15 reps

Post-Surf Recovery:

• •Doorway pec stretch: 30 sec each side
• •Cross-body shoulder stretch: 30 sec each
• •Lat stretch: 30 sec each side

Training Principles:

• •3:1 to 4:1 pulling-to-pushing ratio in gym work
• •Prioritize rows, face pulls, and external rotation
• •Limit bench press and overhead pressing
• •Never train through shoulder pain

Lower Back Protection

Why Surfers Get Back Pain

Paddling requires sustained spinal extension (back arch) to keep the head above water. This creates:

• •Compression of lumbar facet joints
• •Tightness in hip flexors and erector spinae
• •Weakness in deep core stabilizers
• •Imbalanced loading patterns

Prevention Strategies

Core Stability Focus:

• •Dead bugs: 3x10 each side
• •Bird dogs: 3x10 each side
• •Pallof press: 3x10 each side
• •Plank variations: not for time, for quality

Hip Flexor Maintenance:

• •Half-kneeling hip flexor stretch: 60 sec each
• •90/90 stretch: 60 sec each position
• •Pigeon pose: 60 sec each side

During Long Sessions:

• •Take breaks sitting on board (unload spine)
• •Vary paddle position slightly
• •Float on back briefly to reverse extension

Post-Surf:

• •Cat-cow: 10 cycles
• •Child's pose: 60 sec
• •Knees to chest: 30 sec

Reef and Ocean Hazards

Laceration Prevention

Reef cuts are common and heal slowly due to:

• •Coral toxins and bacteria
• •Salt water exposure delaying healing
• •Repeated reopening from activity

Prevention:

• •Know your break: understand bottom contours
• •Wear booties in shallow reef breaks
• •Fall flat, not feet-first over shallow reef
• •Duck dive early over shallow sections

If Cut:

• •Clean thoroughly (hydrogen peroxide, then fresh water)
• •Remove all coral fragments
• •Antibiotic ointment
• •Cover wound for surfing (tegaderm or similar)
• •Watch for infection (redness spreading, warmth, fever)

Drowning and Hold-Down Preparation

Hold-downs are inevitable in surfing. Preparation reduces panic:

Physical Preparation:

• •Breath hold training (never alone, never in water unsupervised)
• •Swimming fitness for underwater swimming
• •Understanding wave cycles (typically 10-15 seconds)

Mental Preparation:

• •Stay calm - panic increases oxygen consumption
• •Protect your head - cover with arms while tumbling
• •Go limp - fighting the wave wastes energy
• •Wait for release - the wave will let you go

Safety Protocols:

• •Know your limits - don't surf conditions beyond your skill
• •Surf with others in challenging conditions
• •Understand rip currents and how to escape them
• •Check conditions before paddling out

Concussion Awareness

Surfers can sustain concussions from:

• •Board strike (own or another surfer's)
• •Bottom impact (reef, sand)
• •Wave impact (especially closeouts)

Prevention:

• •Maintain awareness of other surfers
• •Protect head when falling (cover with arms)
• •Avoid surfing directly behind others
• •Consider a surf helmet in big waves

If Suspected:

• •Exit water immediately
• •Do not return to water that day
• •Seek medical evaluation
• •Follow return-to-activity protocol

Ear Protection

Surfer's Ear (Exostosis)

Prolonged cold water exposure causes bone growths in the ear canal:

• •Develops over years of cold water surfing
• •Can cause hearing loss and ear infections
• •Requires surgery if severe

Prevention:

• •Wear earplugs in water below 65°F (18°C)
• •Dry ears thoroughly after surfing
• •Consider custom-molded surf earplugs

Ear Infections

Warm water bacteria plus trapped moisture causes outer ear infections:

• •Pain, itching, discharge
• •Common in tropical surf travel

Prevention:

• •Dry ears after surfing (shake head, use towel)
• •Consider swimmer's ear drops (alcohol/vinegar solution)
• •Don't use cotton swabs (damages ear canal)

Knee and Ankle Injuries

Mechanisms

• •Twisting during maneuvers
• •Impact from wipeouts
• •Awkward pop-ups on uneven waves

Prevention

• •Lower body strength training (squats, lunges, single-leg work)
• •Proprioceptive training (balance work)
• •Ankle mobility maintenance
• •Proper pop-up technique (feet land at same time)

Training Load Management

Signs of Overtraining

• •Chronic shoulder aching
• •Declining paddle power
• •Increased fatigue during sessions
• •Motivation dropping
• •Sleep disruption

Managing Load

• •Track surf session duration and intensity
• •Include recovery days (especially after long sessions)
• •Reduce training volume during high surf periods
• •Deload every 4-6 weeks or after surf-heavy periods

Key Takeaways

1. 1.Shoulder health is non-negotiable - daily maintenance prevents career-ending injuries
2. 2.Core stability protects the back - anti-movement exercises are more valuable than crunches
3. 3.Know your environment - understand reefs, currents, and conditions before surfing
4. 4.Prepare for hold-downs - breath hold training and mental preparation reduce panic
5. 5.Manage training load - more is not always better, especially for shoulders
6. 6.Address issues early - pain is a signal, not something to push through

References

• •Nathanson A, Bird S, Dao L, Tam-Sing K (2007). Competitive surfing injuries: a prospective study of surfing-related injuries among contest surfers. Am J Sports Med.
• •Furness J, Hing W, Walsh J, et al. (2015). Acute injuries in recreational and competitive surfers. Am J Sports Med.
• •Lowdon BJ, Pateman NA, Pitman AJ (1983). Surfboard-riding injuries. Med J Aust.
• •Base L, Alves M, Martins E, Costa R (2007). Injuries among professional surfers. Am J Sports Med.